Camera settings:
Date/Time imprint - This will appear on your screen as the time and date of your shooting, and it cannot be removed. First is the hours, then the minuets and then the seconds. And last bit of the time code is the frames. the maximum frames is 25 and then it will restart at zero.
White Balance - This is a button located on the side of the camera and helps the camera adjust to the light in the enviorment it is shot in. It's best to focus on a white surface when adjusting the light so the colour is clearer.
Zoom - There is a zoom control on the side of the camera that allows you to zoom in and out on objects.
If you want an object to be in focus far away, simply zoom in on it so it can focus and then zoom out.
Focus: there is a focus control on the camera that allows you to keep the object in your view finder sharp and clear. You can focus automatically or manually. Whilst in auto-focus the camera will automatically focus on what is in the view finder. But doing it manually allows you to focus on whatever you want according to your prefference.
Tripod - When using a camera you can use a tripod in order to keep the camera still, the shot smooth and the continuity much better. To set up the Tripod you must unhook the three legs so that they are at the right level. Then slide the camera into place on top of the tripod and secure it. To make sure it is level with the groud make sure the bubble is directly in the middle of the circle. This is called Bubbling. There is also a panning handle that allows you to pan across a scene smoothly.
Handheld - Or you can just hold the camera, for a dramatic effect. If you want the camera work to be jerky and move. This also allows you to shoot from more interesting angles rather than using a tripod.
Using the Camera:
There are many different camera shots that you can use for different effects such as...
Extreme wide shot - Often used as an establishing shot, where the subject is so far away it's hardly visable.
Very wide shot - A bit closer than EW shot but still far away
Wide shot - Even closer than VW shot where subject take up the whole frame
Mid shot - Where the only half of the subject is shown and even closer.
Medium close up - even closer Mid shot, usually head and shoulders of the subject
Close up - Just the face of subject shown
Extreme Close up - Only a feature on the subject is shown, such as the eye or mouth
Cut away shot - a shot of something other than the subject
Over the shoulder shot - where the camera is positioned over someones shoulder usually while two people are having a conversation.
Two shot - a comfortable shot of two people
Industry Termonology:
STAND BY / STANDING BY - readys everyone into position for the take. The AD calls STAND BY and the response tells them that everyone is prepped
TURN OVER / TURNING OVER (Roll film/Rolling etc) The director tells the camera operator to start filming - a few seconds of film is then run as the camera gets up to speed - this is often referred to as LEAD IN. Once done the Camera operator will respond TURNING OVER or ROLLING (etc) to indicate being up to speed
ACTION! - Cue for the actors to perform the take, and the crew to do their jobs. It is good practice for the Director to let the film run on a further few seconds after the take is completed before cutting - this is referred to as LEAD OUT
CUT! - Cue for the camera to stop running film. Industry practice expects that the camera operator does not CUT before being told
My personal experience:
I really enjoyed using the video camera, although i am more comfortaable using the still camera as i love being able to capture just a moment.
Althought the video camera has the ability to tell a story more than a still camera, which allows the camera man to be more creative.
I feel i can operate the video camera to an acceptable ability, but my talents really lie with the still camera.
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